11: Sauntering thru West Jerusalem
By Skip Schiel

Photos: Two women, one man, West Jerusalem , November 2004

The word Urshaleim means city of peace. But the city of peace has become the city of war, where once the angels' trumpets heralded the birth of Christ declaring: 'Glory to God high above, peace on earth, joy to the people.' The crackle of gunfire, the explosion of bombs and the bursts of rockets echoed within its walls. I do not know why Israel ignores the fact that peace is not only a prize for the Arabs but also for itself?

--Pope Moussa Bishop, The Coptic Orthodox Church

Last Sunday, November 14, I sauntered thru the main commercial district of West Jerusalem, the city center, during a moment of relative peace. How close it is to East Jerusalem--until recently primarily the residence of Israeli Palestinians--and the Old City . Perhaps 2 km, an easy walk on a warm sunny morning.

The market on Jaffa Road (Derekh Yafo) where I made these two photos resembles a Palestinian market, same produce, same sweets, similarly crowded, the men wear kippahs, the women do not wear head coverings (except for the ultra-religious). And the prices are about the same.

Masked from view is the history of this portion of Jerusalem, the fact that some of it is built on the remnants of Arab villages. I sensed this possibility as I walked into a small courtyard surrounded by ancient-appearing stone dwellings. Also easily ignored on this calm and balmy Sunday morning is the relentless confiscation of Palestinian land in East Jerusalem by Israeli authorities.

One key difference between the streets of West Jerusalem and Ramallah where I live might be the substratum of fear in the former. Maybe it’s just me: so far I’ve refused to ride public buses in Israel , wary of the occasional bomber. (Tel Aviv was attacked recently.) But I have not avoided the crowded outdoor malls and markets which are also targeted. I noticed security personnel, usually young dark-skinned men, standing languidly at bus stops, apparently watching for suspicious riders. One man in uniform approached me as I photographed.

--I have no problem with you photographing here, he said politely, but I do have a problem with you showing security people at bus stops.

Now that Arafat is dead opinions are flying about who will prevail--the armed militant wings of the Palestinian resistance like Hamas and Hezbollah or the more conciliatory leadership led by Abu Mazen (nearly killed in a recent attack in Gaza).

On the streets of West Jerusalem and in the market, life continues as it has for centuries, millennia perhaps, shopping, strolling, relaxing, sipping cappuccino, enjoying the last days of late autumn.

”According to the final report of the UN Conciliation Commission (UNCCP) Land Expert, the total area of Jerusalem Sub district (excluding Hebron and Ramallah) was estimated at 296,943 dunums of which 222,482 (74.59%) dunums [were] owned by Arabs.”

--http://www.jerusalemites.org/jerusalem/islam/48.htm

Buses with security system to begin operating Monday, Feb. 22, 2004 , Jerusalem Post--

http://www.jpost.com/servlet/Satellite?pagename=JPost/JPArticle/ShowFull&cid=1077423453738&p=1006688055060

Four dead in Tel Aviv bombing, November 02, 2004 , The Australian--

http://www.theaustralian.news.com.au/common/story_page/0,5744,11258915%255E2703,00.html

New photos about checkpoints and the Separation Wall at Abu Dis on my website--

http://teeksaphoto.org/Levant2004FF/index.html

Also events in Ramallah surrounding the death and burial of President Arafat--

http://www.eappi.org